The three things you must check before buying any used car
Before you ever contact a seller or schedule a test drive, three data points determine whether a vehicle is worth pursuing. First, open recalls: a safety defect the manufacturer is required to fix for free — but only while it's open. Buy a car with an open recall and the repair cost becomes yours. Second, safety rating: the federal government's crash test result for that make, model, and year. A vehicle with a 3-star overall rating is not the same purchase as a 5-star rating, regardless of price. Third, market value: what comparable vehicles are actually selling for, not what the seller is asking. Without a comp set, you cannot negotiate from a position of knowledge.
All three of these are available for free. None require a CarFax account.
NHTSA public database: recalls, safety ratings, crash test results
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration maintains the most authoritative free database for used car research. It contains every open recall filed by manufacturers with the federal government, official safety ratings from 1–5 stars across overall, frontal, side, and rollover categories, and full crash test results by make, model, and year.
To check a specific vehicle, go to nhtsa.gov/vehicle-safety/recalls and enter the 17-character VIN. The result shows every recall ever issued for that VIN, whether each recall is open (not yet repaired) or closed (repaired), and the specific safety system affected — airbag, brakes, steering, fuel system, and so on.
For safety ratings, go to nhtsa.gov/ratings and search by year, make, and model. This gives you the full crash test result for that vehicle variant. A vehicle without a safety rating — often older models or low-volume trims — is not inherently unsafe, but it means you have less information to work with.
- Number of open recalls on this specific vehicle
- Recall description and affected system (e.g., "Takata airbag inflator — may rupture and send metal fragments toward occupants")
- Recall status: open (not fixed) or closed (repaired at a dealer)
- Remedy available: whether a fix exists or is still pending
EPA FuelEconomy.gov: MPG data and long-term ownership cost
The EPA's FuelEconomy.gov database gives you official city, highway, and combined MPG for every vehicle sold in the US since 1984. This matters for total cost of ownership. A vehicle with 18 MPG combined vs. one with 28 MPG combined costs approximately $1,200–$1,800 more per year in fuel at current gas prices, assuming 12,000 miles driven annually. Over a 5-year ownership period, that's $6,000–$9,000 in additional fuel cost that won't appear in the listing price.
FuelEconomy.gov also shows annual fuel cost estimates based on current gas prices, making it easy to compare two vehicles on a true annual cost basis rather than sticker price alone.
Market value estimation without paying: the manual comp set
The fastest free method for estimating market value is building a comp set on CarGurus or AutoTrader. Search for the same year, make, model, trim, and drivetrain as the vehicle you're evaluating. Filter mileage to within ±20,000 miles of the listing. Look at a sample of 10–15 active listings and calculate the median asking price — not the average, which can be skewed by outliers.
A vehicle priced more than 10% above the median of your comp set needs a specific justification — exceptionally low mileage, recent service records, certified pre-owned status. A vehicle priced 15–20% above the median without those factors is overpriced and a candidate for negotiation or walking away.
CarGurus displays a "Good Deal," "Fair Deal," or "Overpriced" label based on their own comp analysis. It's a useful quick signal, though building your own comp set gives you the underlying data to negotiate with.
What CarFax actually gives you that free sources don't
CarFax pulls from insurance claim databases and DMV title records — two sources that NHTSA doesn't include. The result is three categories of information that free sources cannot give you: accident history (reported collisions from insurance claims and police reports), title issues (salvage title, flood damage, lemon law buyback), and odometer rollback flags from multi-state DMV records.
These matter, but they don't replace the free checks — they supplement them. The decision logic is straightforward: run free sources first. If the vehicle has open recalls the seller won't fix, walk away without spending $40. If the free checks look clean and you're seriously considering a vehicle above $15,000, a CarFax report is a reasonable $40 investment. Below that price point, the cost of the report is a larger percentage of the transaction and the expected savings from finding a title issue is proportionally smaller.
CarWise: all three checks automatically on any listing
CarWise is a Chrome extension that runs automatically when you open any vehicle listing on CarMax, Carvana, AutoTrader, or Cars.com. It shows recall count, NHTSA safety rating, and market value in a sidebar panel — without requiring you to open NHTSA in a separate tab, copy the VIN, and navigate through the search form for each vehicle you look at.
When you're comparing 20 listings across multiple sessions, the friction of manually running NHTSA lookups on each one is enough that most buyers skip it. CarWise makes it automatic, so the check happens on every vehicle you open — not just the ones you remember to check.
CarWise is free for 5 scans per month. Pro is $9.99/month for unlimited scans with additional data including owner cost estimates and reliability scores by make and model.
Red flags: when to walk away without further research
Three signals should end your evaluation of a vehicle immediately. First, an open safety recall the seller won't fix: dealers are required by federal law to fix open recalls before selling a used vehicle. Private sellers are not — but their refusal to fix a known safety defect should be disqualifying. Second, market value 20%+ above the comp set with no justification: this isn't a negotiation problem, it's a seller who has priced based on what they paid, not what the market supports. Third, a salvage or rebuilt title: these vehicles have been declared a total loss by an insurance company. They can be roadworthy after repair, but resale value is permanently depressed, financing is difficult, and insurance rates are higher.
| Free Source | What It Shows | Limitation |
|---|---|---|
| NHTSA Recalls (VIN lookup) | Open recalls, recall status, affected system | Doesn't confirm if recall was actually repaired (need manufacturer lookup separately) |
| NHTSA Safety Ratings | 1–5 star crash test results by make/model/year | Not all older or low-volume models have ratings |
| EPA FuelEconomy.gov | Official MPG, annual fuel cost estimate | Real-world MPG varies by driving style and condition |
| CarGurus / AutoTrader comp set | Market price range for same year/make/model/mileage | Asking price, not actual transaction price |
| CarFax / AutoCheck (paid) | Accident history, title issues, odometer rollback | $40–50 per report; doesn't replace free checks |